Last week I spent some days in Rome. After months of studying for my last WSET Diploma exam I needed a short break.
Rome is fascinating, it is one of my favorite cities. I know the city quite well. It is a place where I have lived-in and have visited several times.
Ancient Rome is best known for its historical architecture, religion, cuisine, fashion and Renaissance works. Walking through Rome is like walking in one big open-air museum! Some iconic landmarks of Rome are the Colosseum, Trevi Fountain, the Vatican City and many more.
I always love going back. The place is the eternal city and must be seen once in life.
I was surprised by how many tourists visited Rome. They say that November is the least busy time to visit the city, but it was still crowded though. Maybe because the Italian took advantage of a long weekend “fare il ponte”. Fare il ponte is an Italian expression which means literally “to make a bridge”.
The last time when I visited Rome was for the the 10 km race “la corsa dei Santi” in on November 1, 2018 1. I can’t remember the time I have finished the race, but what I remember is that we ran inside the city along many historic monuments. Great experience.
It has been a while since I wrote a blog post. Maybe because I do not have many new ideas or fantasy anymore to write about. Since 2022 I am back in the Netherlands and my focus is mainly wine, work, study and running (of course). New “wine” projects are upcoming, so stay tuned about the latest updates.
But for now just enjoy reading this blog post about Rome. Discover what to do and where to eat the best “spaghetti alla carbonara”. Enjoy the new spots and the best places to run in it’s busy heavily trafficked city.
Jubilee 2025
The city is always packed with tourists, imagine with the Jubilee next year. The holy year will bring even bigger crowds to Rome. The Rome Jubilee 2025 festivities will take place from Christmas Eve December 24, 2024 until Epiphany festival in January 2026. It is called the “Pilgrims of Hope”. Jubilees take place every 25 years.
Today Rome is under construction for the Jubilee. Due to construction, work facades are hidden, roads are blocked and you can hardly see any monument. This causes inconveniences, not only for visitors but especially for the locals.
Monti
I discovered new culinary treasures between Termini station and Via dei Fori Imperiali. One of my favorite new spot is the Monti district. Monti is Rome’s funky, hipster area with new bars, clothing boutiques and restaurants. It is a great place for Roman food, good wines and delicious ice creams.
To get to Monti you need to take the blue metro line B. The nearest station is Cavour.
Colosseum
I did the Colosseum tour with an official tour guide. Colosseum is one of the most famous monument in Rome, perhaps in the world!
I booked a 2.5 hour tour with access to the Colosseum, Roman Forum and Palatine hill on a guided tour. The local guide was extremely informative and knowledgeable. It is well worth the money. A bit crowded but still a nice experience.
I have booked with GetYourGuide. Get Your Guide is an online marketplace for booking tours and activities in many places.
Vatican Museum
The best way to visit the Vatican Museum is with a guide. There are many tour options available but I booked the tour through the official website.
The Vatican was busy, as usual. It is a museum with 25000 visitors every day. The tour is 2 hours in the museum. Unfortunately, it is not possible to admire all the art work in such a short time. But our guide was good. We managed to see all the important parts of the museum. A must do.
Food and Drinks
I love eating everything that is Italian. I am privileged and lucky that I can and may eat all kinds of foods.
Traditional Roman foods are for example Spaghetti Carbonara, Pasta Amatriciana, Suppli, Carciofi alla Romana and “Maritozzo”.
Il Maritozzaro
Maritozzo is a filled freshly baked brioche filled with whipped cream. Honestly it was one of my favorite breakfasts. A hidden bar nearby the Trastevere station “il Maritozzaro” is worth the detour if you want to eat a good Maritozzo.
It is an ideal place to have a quick meal or snack before departure. It is pretty new. There are lots of choices including steak, burgers, pasta, pizza, sushi, desserts, craft beer, wine and gelato.
Several food stalls showcase the best produce from Rome, Italy and other countries.
Mercato Testaccio
Mercato di Testaccio is located in a more permanent structure. Here you can try some of the best street foodies.
Pizza al trancio is very popular, especially the classic pizza that is topped with ham, mushrooms, olives, artichoke and tomatoes. Yummy! This pizza is always priced by the total weight of the slices.
Another classic Roman Jewish dish is the fried artichoke “carciofi alla giudia”. They are seasoned with salt, pepper and a squeeze of lemon. This foodie is the perfect appetizer.
The Testaccio market is open Monday to Saturday from 7:00 am until 3:30 pm.
Milea Art & Food
Milea is a cocktail bar, bistrot in an art gallery in the heart of Rome (Trastevere). Such a great find during my stay in Rome! Cozy atmosphere to just relax and have a nice cocktail.
The Aperol Spritz is super delicious. This aperitif is made of Aperol, Prosecco/Spumante and soda water.
Ditirambo ristorante
This restaurant reminds me of a dinner I had with my father in 2009. Ditirambo is on a side street of the Campo de’ Fiori.
The classic Roman food and atmosphere never disappoints me. I can recommend the “fritto misto del Ditirambo”. This fried mix is popular and it includes fried cod, potato croquettes and meatballs.
After the antipasto comes the primo, the first course. Primo is usually pasta, risotto, gnocchi or sometimes soup.
I taglioni fatti in casa alla “gricia” con guanciale, carciofi and pecorino is a beautiful dish of homemade pasta with pork meat, artichoke and pecorino. Gricia means “white Amatriciana” or “carbonara without eggs”.
Buon appetito!
More restaurants
And here is a short list of more spots in Rome for Foodies:
For the best-ever traditional Roman Carbonara
Location: Termini station
Da Nazzareno
Via Magenta 35/37
Roma
Accasadi refers to “a casa di” in Italian. Like Antonietta describes: “Let’s go to Sylvia’s place.”
Location: Numidio Quadrato (metro line A)
Running
When I am on a holiday I love to run. Running helps me to stay in shape, physically and mentally. But it is also a way to experience the culture of a new place. It is a different way of sightseeing.
Running gear doesn’t occupy much space in my luggage. I always bring one pair of running shoes with me and the clothes I normally wear to run. Wherever I go.
The best place to run is along the Tiber river. The river flows through the center and provides one of the best running routes in Rome.
Metro line B: Basilca San Paolo, start Ponte Gugliemo Marconi
In the historical centre you can run easily because the main sights are achievable. To avoid traffic you need to go early. But personally I prefer running along the Tiber or in the Villa Borghese area. The park is full of beautiful paths.
Start from Piazza del Popolo and enjoy! How do I get there? Metro line A: Spagna or Flaminio.
Cantina Gattavecchi organizes a yearly fundraising dinner for the Breast Cancer Foundation “Io Sempre Donna“. Io Sempre Donna is in Chianciano Terme, a small village nearby Montepulciano.
Usually this annual charity dinner offers food from all over the world. But this time chef Lilian Gattavecchi decided to offer an Italian night with food from different regions, such as: Trentino – Alto Adige, Veneto, Calabria, Sardegna, Liguria, Toscana, Piemonte, Sicilia and Lombardia.
The wines they served were local wines from winery Gattavecchi: Toscana IGT red and white; Rosso di Montepulciano DOC; Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG and Vino Santo di Montepulciano DOC.
The total amount of the dinner was euro 30.00 per person (including bread, water and wine).
Io Sempre Donna
Breast cancer is the second most common cancer among women. Io Sempre Donna helps women who are dealing with breast cancer and are in need of emotional support.
In Italy women who are 50 years or older (until 69) have screenings every 2 years. Women with a family history of breast cancer have a routine screening mammograms every year.
Io Sempre Donna means literally “Me always a woman”. Women diagnosed with breast cancer face a difficult time. Io Sempre Donna assist and support them before, during and after hard times.
Foiano della Chiana is a small village in the province of Arezzo. It is home to a few thousand inhabitants
I have never visited the historic centre of Foiano della Chiana, but I do know that they have the best meat restaurant in town!
Fierli farm
Fierli is an organic farm. They keep 200 Chianina calfs and 300 Cinta Senese pigs. The animals have 100 ha agriculture land for grazing.
A few years ago I visited the farm. The agriculture land is really impressive and nice to see.
Nicola, Cecilia, Francesco, Atos and Eros Fierli are all responsible for running the farm and the restaurant. It is a good place to eat and popular with locals who come to enjoy the bistecca and other high quality meat dishes.
The farm and restaurant are located in the centre, not far from the Valdichiana Outlet in Foiano della Chiana.
Restaurant Fierli
The restaurant is open seven days a week for lunch.Only indoor dining is offered. Dinner is saved only for special occasions or a private dining event.
The shop is open at 9 am every day. I often buy meat at the Fierli’s butcher shop for new local recipes with wine I sell in my webshop.
The Cinta Senese pigs and the Chianina veals are merely slaughtered only by competent personnel at specialized established slaughterhouses.
Son Nicola and daughter Cecilia are committed to serving you amazing food. The restaurant offers dishes that showcase fresh local produce from their own farm.
The restaurant’s wine list consists of a small selection of local Tuscan wines. Cecilia is a certified FISAR sommelier and she loves to guide you through the range of wines and advice you on the perfect food pairing.
Cecilia is a good friend of mine, I have known her since our FISAR wine study in Italy.
Bistecca Chianina IGP
Chianina meat is protected by the IGP mark (Protected Geographical Indication). This means quality guaranteed.
IGP is linked to the place of origin where it is being produced, processed and prepared. The average weight of one bistecca is 1 kg and meant to serve 2-3 people.
Chianina is one of the finest meat. It is the oldest breed of cattle raised in Italy. Chianina is also called the “gigante bianco”, the white giant because of the size and the color.
Its territory of origin is the Val di Chiana in the province of Siena. You can find the Chianina breed in central Italy.
In ancient times the Chianina was used only for work, but since the ’30 in Bettole (Valdichiana) the breed is raised for meat production. The Chianina veal is not made for fast growing and slaughtering.
Chianina is the largest and oldest breed in the world. The meats are extremely delicious and healthy!
Cinta Senese DOP
The indigenous Cinta Senese pig is native to the Tuscan region and in particular nearby Siena. The breed is medium sized, with black skin and a white belt. They have been raised for centuries.
The pigs live in maximum freedom throughout diverse forests. The Cinta Senese pigs can eat whatever they want.
The meat has a DOP classification, which means local products of high quality. It has a unique and surprising flavour.
The main cured meats produced with the Cinta Senese breed are dry-cured ham, capocollo, finocchiona, salami, pancetta and so on.
Chianina and Cinta Senese Experience
Fierli organizes a Chianina and Cinta Senese Experience 2-3 times a week. Enjoy the possibility of high quality, organic, wholesome and KM zero food.
The chef prepares the best meat dishes for your lunch. It is an amazing experience when you’re on holiday in Italy. Also nice for children.
Spending one day in Florence may not be enough to discover the city. Florence is a place you have to see once in your lifetime. It is the city of cities for tourists.
Every year millions of people visit Florence.
At the moment, due to the impact of the coronavirus, many visitors stay away… unfortunately.
Fantastic and fun things to do
The city has many great things to offer, such as museums, Renaissance art, churches, wine bars, restaurants and some other well known highlights.
If you only have one day, make sure not to miss the Piazza della Signoria and Michelangelo’s David in the Galleria dell’Academia. The greatest masterpiece of the Renaissance.
Visit the Galleria degli Uffizi. Admire the goddess of beauty and love “Venus”. The Birth of Venus is painted by Botticelli.
Definitely a food lover’s paradise in the centre of Florence is The Mercato Centrale. An unmissable destination for fantastic food and a glass of wine.
Ponte Vecchio
Walk over the bridge Ponte Vecchio!
View of Florence and the Arno
Piazzale Michelangelo sits on a hill. Enjoy the panoramic view.
For special exhibitions* go to The Palazzo Strozzi. *In 2017 I have visited the exhibition dedicated to the Chinese artist Ai Weiwei.
And not to forget The Palazzo Pitti. The Pitti Palace is Medici’s residence and it houses important collections of Renaissance paintings and sculptures.
Just to mention a few things what to do in Florence…
David of Michelangelo
The capital city of Tuscany
Florence or Firenze is the capital city of the region Tuscany. For me it is one of the most beautiful places on earth. It is the birthplace of the Renaissance.
As I am interested in Renaissance art, Florence is a city where I could return to again and again without ever getting bored.
Ponte Vecchio
Ponte Vecchio
Piazza del Duomo
Florence has incredible restaurants, gelaterias, cafes and osteria’s. Caffè Gilli is the oldest café in Florence. It is a cocktail bar with sofas and chairs in a nice chill-out “space”.
From here you have a beautiful view on the square Piazza della Republica, the largest piazza in Florence.
Caffè Gilli
Visiting Florence during Covid-19
This February I have visited Florence. Tuscany was low risk “zona gialla”.
The Italian Dpcm rules related to the yellow zones: all shops and museums are open. Bars and restaurants are allowed to stay open from 5 AM until 6 PM.
The number of Covid-19 cases in Italy is still increasing. Tuscany has been classified as a red, orange and yellow zone.
The anti-Covid regulations are stricter for the red and orange zones. Museums are closed. Hairdressers are closed. Horeca can offer food delivery and takeaway. Traveling is prohibited unless absolutely necessary.
At present Tuscany is a orange zone.
On my way to Piazzale Michelangelo
Museum Le Gallerie degli Uffizi
In 2008 I have visited the Galleria degli Uffizi when I backpacked through Italy. I stayed at Camping Michelangelo for a few nights. I remember waiting there outside for hours to get in the museum.
The Uffizi Gallery is the most important and popular museum in Italy, together with the Vatican Museums in Rome. Two top destinations not to be missed.
Despite having few tourists at the moment, there was a queue to enter the Uffizi. These people were mostly Italian and school children.
Book your ticket online
Through the website of the Galleria degli Uffizi you can book your visit on a date and time of your choice. The price for the online entrance ticket is Euro 16,00 per person. With this ticket you avoid long lines.
Upon booking you will receive a confirmation email. You show your e-ticket to the ticket office where it will be exchanged for an entrance ticket.
Galleria degli Uffizi
Audio guide
To learn more about the museum’s most popular objects an audio guide provides interesting information on the things you see.
The audio guide is available in 4 languages (Italian, English, Spanish and German) and can be rented at the service desk, but only with your own valid ID card.
“La primavera” Sandro Botticelli
Important art works at the Uffizi Galleries
The works in the gallery are shown in the chronological order in which they were painted.
Many art collections belonged to the Medici family. The Gallery’s collection includes masterpieces of Filippo Lippi (Madonna col Bambino e due Angeli), Botticelli (Spring and The Birth of Venus), Michelangelo, Raffaelo and Leonardo da Vinci.
Filippo Lippi “Madonna col Bambino e due angeli”
“Nascita di Vendere” Sandro Botticelli
The Galleria degli Uffizi houses art works from Dutch, German and Flemish painters as well.
My favourite restaurant in Florence
Trattoria la Casalinga is situated only a stone’s throw away from the Palazzo Pitti. The location is a bit off the tourist path. This trattoria offers the best Tuscan meals!
Trattoria la Casalinga
I had lunch with Thomas, a friend of mine who works in the same businesses. He organizes wine tours and tastings in Tuscany.
We discussed various topics. Hopefully we can start a wine project together in the nearby future. Who knows! We feel the absence of (American) tourists. Wine tours and tastings are completely disrupted by the Covid-19 pandemic.
Thomas enjoys wine and he knows a lot about it. He’s an expert. For our lunch he choose the wine Carmignano DOCG from the winery il Sassolo. This wine is made from 80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. It is a full bodied red wine, good pairing with local Tuscan food.
Our lunch menu
We started with chicken liver paté served on crostini and Lardo di Colonnato. As a main course we ordered the Fegato alla Toscana (pork liver). A deeply flavored piece of meat. Liver tastes really good. I like it.
Many people don’t eat organ meats. I can imagine that. Some people don’t even want to think of eating it. Luckily I eat almost anything. Liver is healthy, but you shouldn’t eat it too often.
Carmignano DOCG
Fegato alla toscana
Our lunch was top notch! Good food, excellent wine and nice ambiance. Great and fast service in Trattoria la Casalinga.
fegatini toscani
caffè
Shopping in Florence
Besides being the cradle of the Renaissance period, Florence is also the ultimate shopping destination in Italy. It is one of the “Made in Italy” fashion capitals, together with Milano. I enjoy shopping in Florence.
February is the period of sales. You find the best sales and discount on fashion clothing.
In the centre’s shopping areas people need to wear face masks. Also in shops face coverings are mandatory.
Before you go into a shop you must clean your hands with hand sanitizer gel.
My shopping addresses
In Florence I have my favourite shopping addresses. I am a regular customer at Intimissimi. I have a card for extra benefits. The service at Intimissimi is good and friendly.
At this moment my preferred clothing store is GUESS. GUESS is an American clothing brand. You’ll find a variety of styles. GUESS is fashionable for men and women. Hip and stylish!
Address: Via degli Speziali 9R, Firenze
Desigual is on one side of the Ponte Vecchio. Another clothing shop in Florence where I often check the latest trends.
GUESS shopping
Getting to Florence by public transport
There are several ways to get to Florence.
I always go to Florence by train from Chiusi-Chianciano Terme. From here it takes 1h 45 m on average to Firenze S.M.N.
You can buy your train ticket through the website Trenitalia or at the train station. A one way train ticket Chiusi – Firenze costs Euro 14,00 (regional train).
The top sights in the historical centre are easily to explore by foot. In Florence trams and busses are widely used.
From Florence you can make day trips by train. Cities such as Siena, Pisa and Arezzo are within easy reach.
Getting to Florence by car
Along the A1 highway is the Villa Costanza Car Park (Scandicci). You can access it both coming from the North or the South. Villa Costanza is the first Drive and Tramway car park in Italy.
Villa Costanza is an ideal alternative to avoid traffic jams in the centre of Florence. The T1 line brings you to the centre.
A single way costs Euro 1,50 and is valid for 90 minutes. Every tram stop has a ticket machine. You’re not able to buy tickets on board.
Running in Florence
Florence is a city where I have left literally many footprints. I ran the Firenze Marathon in 2016.
Firenze marathon 2016
And before that, I’ve participated in many smaller runs. This was the period in which we headed off to Florence almost every week. Even just for a training with Fulvio Massini.
We miss our races in Italy!
Notturna di San Giovanni 10 km run
Firenze Corre
Florence in a day.. enjoy this YouTube video!
I’ve made this video this February to let you experience Florence from a distance.
Giacomo Baraldo is a passionate winemaker from San Casciano dei Bagni (SI). What is a Vigneron? Vigneron is French. It derives from the word “vigne” which means grape vine. It is a person who cultivates grapes for winemaking.
Giacomo makes wine from his own grapes… He is a Vigneron!
Giacomo Baraldo
As a student of oenology Giacomo already started producing wine. After intensive experiences and completing his wine bachelor of science degree in oenology Giacomo became a professional winemaker.
He has a passion for making fabulous wines. He worked hard and didn’t stop until he achieved what he wanted… being one of the most greatest winemakers in the world!
Giacomo is a native Tuscan. He travelled around the world to discover the winemaking industry. He visited some of the best wineries in France.
France is the country of the most finest and expensive wines. For wine studies France is the country to learn the secrets of quality wine making. For a taste of fine work, training and educational programs Giacomo headed to Bordeaux (Margaux), Graves and Burgundy. All prestigieus wine regions in France.
Winemakers and wine growers in France taught him everything about wine and winemaking. In Burgundy he got to know the basics with white wine.
San Casciano dei Bagni (SI)
Giacomo lives with his family in San Casciano dei Bagni. San Casciano dei Bagni is a medieval town located in the southern border of Siena.
San Casciano dei Bagni
The village is known for its natural outdoor thermal springs and roman baths. The thermal waters contain sulphur, calcium and fluorides. A perfect opportunity to relax for FREE all year!
Vineyards
Tuscany is a region best known for it’s Sangiovese-based dry red wines. In San Casciano dei Bagni the family Baraldo owns about 3,5 ha of vineyards for the production of red and white wines.
They make red IGT as well as white wine: Grechetto, Chardonnay, Malvasia and Trebbiano.
Pinot Noir
Giacomo works together with the Greystone winery in Waipara valley, New Zealand. Here he put his knowledge of wine making into practice.
In Waipara valley Giacomo buys Pinot Noir grapes from vine growers. He makes his own premium quality wine from Pinot Noir grapes.
Pinot Noir Giacomo Baraldo Vigneron
Pinot Noir Giacomo Baraldo Vigneron
The front label of the wine bottle shows the Kiwi. And on the back label is the following tekst written:
Contains 100% of Pinot Noir Contains 100% of my work Contains 100% of my passion
In many wine shops in Italy you can purchase the Pinot Noir wines from Giacomo Baraldo. Even in Montepulciano!
For our lunch in restaurant Daniela we ordered the Pinot Noir wine from New Zealand: 2018 18,5 K Pinot Noir Giacomo Baraldo Vigneron. The wine was not filtered and not fined.
By holding the glass the wine has a pale red color with charming red fruits of cherries, wild strawberries, pomegranates, coffee, cacao and herbaceous.
A special wine with an elegant texture. It is a great wine to pair with antipasti misti and pasta dishes.
Antipasto misto
Pappardelle al ragù di cinta senese bianca
Millefoglie con crema chantilly, fragole e panna
Screw cap
There is the romance and tradition with the classical cork. Almost all Italian wines have a cork.
New Zealand is a young and innovative wine country. New Zealand wine is sealed with screw caps. Whether they are cheap wines or among the best bottles in the country.
Ristorante Daniela
The family Baraldo owns and operaties restaurant Daniela in San Casciano dei Bagni. The restaurant serve local Tuscan cuisine. It’s not just a restaurant, it is a place where besides the good food, you will get good service and good wine.
Ristorante Daniela is a unique experience and really recommended. Siete i benvenuti!
Address: Piazza Matteotti 6, 53049 San Casciano dei Bagni (Siena)
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