Market in Montepulciano

Market in Montepulciano

Weekly market every Thursday in Montepulciano

A visit to the local market is a very characteristic experience in Montepulciano.

It is a typical Italian market with fresh fish, salumi, prosciutto, olives, different types of pecorino cheeses, cod, mozzarella di bufala, roast chicken as well as kitchen utensils, clothes and shoes.

There is always something for everyone!

The weekly market is from 8 am till 1 pm. Address: Piazza Pietro Nenni in Montepulciano.

Two market stalls every Tuesday and Friday in Montepulciano

Every week on Tuesday and Friday morning is a small outdoor market in the “Via Marino Cappelli” in front of the BCC Bank. The two market stalls sell fresh fruit, vegetables and fish.

The fish market vendor offer a wide range of fresh fish and seafood: salmon, tune, calamari, squid, cuttlefish and prawns for instance. In addition to the fresh fish you’ll find all kinds of fried fish and fried vegetables such as “fiori di zucca”. Fiori di zucca are blossoms stuffed with ricotta cheese. It’s really worth a try!

This small market is mostly frequented by locals.

Why going to the market?

I love to buy local produce at the market. I like knowing where the food I eat comes from and supporting local farmers. It is good for the environment and it benefits the local economy. 

The food is super fresh compared to the grocery store foods. The market stalls showcase their locally fresh (seasonal) fruits and vegetables. The vendors are more than friendly and they will always choose the best pieces of fruit and vegetables for you.

Every week I go the market in Montepulciano. I often do my shopping at my favorite market stalls. Barra Francesco from Foiano della Chiana (AR) is the best stallholder to buy fresh mozzarella and burrata.

They have a small market stall, not only for cheese, but they sell also other delicacies from Southern Italy. It is a real family owned businesses where mother, father and son are all involved.

Mozzarella di bufala is a traditionally soft cheese produced in the region Campania. Mozzarella is a ball of fresh cheese and has a better texture, richness and overall flavor than the mozzarella cheese from a grocery store.

The family Barra also sells delicious olives, anchovies, taralli (typical snack from Puglia), taralli napoletani, different kinds of cheeses and dried tasty sausages. 

Traditional food

Tuscany is rich in traditional, mainly pork based, dishes. For instance “porchetta”. This is a roasted pork with fennel, bay leaves and pepper. It is a real specialty from Umbria and Southern Tuscany.

Many locals eat a porchetta sandwich for lunch.

Furthermore the bistecca Fiorentina is a famous meat dish in central Italy.

Every day I try to cook fresh. I do not always have the time for that, but I find it important to eat fresh and healthy. The dishes I prepare are mostly seasonal.

Autumn is coming and at the moment you can find a big offer of funghi porcini at the market. So what do we eat tonight? Pappardelle ai funghi porcini!

Buon appetito.

 

Ossobuco di Chianina al Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva recipe

Ossobuco di Chianina al Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva recipe

Ossobuco

Recipes for ossobuco vary wildly. Although the “Ossobuco alla Milanese” from Lombardy may be one of the most famous and well known Italian secondo piatto.

My favorite recipe is: Ossobuco di Chianina al Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva!

Ossobuco di Chianina IGP

You can pair ossobuco with other dishes. I am talking about delicious saffron risotto such as: Risotto alla Milanese.

As a side dish you may choose to eat ossobuco with polenta or with mashed potatoes.

The Italian ossobuco is a beef shank from the cow’s leg. It is a cut of meat butchered from a cow’s or bull leg.

Much is written on which part is best. It’s been said that veal shanks from the hind legs are the best! Meat from those parts is more voluminous and fleshy.

Ossobuco literally translates to “bone with a hole” with meat. You can prepare ossobuco from veal but also with other kinds of meat such as pork.

However, the finest meat for cooking, in Tuscany, is Chianina breed. It is high valued meat with a more intense taste.

For this recipe I bought the ossobuco di Chianina at the Fierli farm in Foiano della Chiana. Fierli is an organic farm. The animals have a long life and they are treated well.

Recipe

The Ossobuco di Chianina al Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva is a true Tuscan recipe. Many people don’t prepare it at home. Some cuts of veal from the store may be chewy.

Tip for buy-in, first look for shanks that are > 2 inches. If they’re too thin, they’ll braise too fast.

My style Ossobuco di Chianina al Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva needs the following ingredients:

Ingrediënten

Recipe for 1 person

  • 1 ossobuco di Chianina
  • flour
  • red wine “Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva DOCG” – Il Convento
  • 2 cloves
  • 1 clove of garlic
  • 1 onion (soffritto)
  • 1 celery (soffritto)
  • 1 carrot (soffritto)
  • 1 bay lief
  • pepper
  • salt
  • olive oil

When braising the ossobuco you may as well use meat broth or any other liquid (water). I prefer to use only wine. I do not mix the wine with other liquids. That would be a no-go, especially when it’s a high quality wine.

Also mixing tomatoes or tomato paste with red wine is not what I recommend. But that’s my personal opinion.

What else do you need

Stew pot

Braadpan

How to cook

Chop the onions, carrots and celery.

Peel the garlic.

Heat the pot until the olive oil is well heated. Instead of olive oil you may also use butter.

First stir-fry the garlic. When the garlic begins to colour reduce heat. Add the soffritto and cook the vegetables until they begin to soften and caramelize.

Meanwhile cover the Ossobuco with the flour.

Ossobuco di Chianina IGP

When the soffritto has a golden wheat color, remove it or move it to a side. It depends on the size of the stew pot. Sear the ossobuco on both sides until nicely browned. Sprinkle the ossobuco with salt and pepper.

Pour the red wine over the ossobuco and bring it to boil to evaporate the alcohol. Reduce the heat and add the bay leave and cloves.

Cover the pot and check occasionally. When the wine is absorbed just add a little extra. The meat should be left at a low temperature for about 2-3 hours.

When the meat is tender it will fall off the bone. The marrow in the hole of the bone is the best part of the ossobuco. It is a real delicacy and super yummy!

Serve the ossobuco on a plate and the warm wine sauce on top of it.

Ossobuco di Chianina al Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva DOCG

What to serve with ossobuco

Due to its massive taste ossobuco goes well with a creamy risotto, mashed potatoes or polenta.

Wine

If you’re cooking beef or stew Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (sangiovese) is your friend. It affects the taste of the dish. The ripe flavors in this wine give complexity to the sauce and the meat. Chianina is a traditional and genuine meat with an intense and pure taste.

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is a full bodied wine. It is best when paired with the right food. In particular Chianina beef.

Nothing beats the magic of a brilliant wine and food pairing!

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva DOCG is recommended by Dutch wine critic and journalist De Grote Hamersma. This wine is available in my webshop.

Buon appetito!

Video

Watch this video recipe to see how to cook Ossobuco di Chianina al Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva.

Biking in Montepulciano

Biking in Montepulciano

Biking in Montepulciano – Tuscany

The region Tuscany is a land of cyclists, it offers a variety of itineraries. Biking is one of the best ways to explore more of this wonderful wine region!

Montepulciano is a scenic hilltop town. It stands on a limestone hill. This area is the right place for road and dirt road cycling routes, but good fitness is required.

The best period for cycling Tuscany on bike are from March to October. Riding in the summer can be hot, but you can bike early in the morning, avoiding the heat of the day. Many find it’s a great time to relax and plan their day.

If you are planning about cycling in Tuscany, the most important biking needs are a good bike (MTB or race), a helmet and a repair kit. Cycling with a helmet is really recommended!

Bike itineraries to Pienza

There are amazing bike routes from Montepulciano to Pienza. The trail types are mostly asphalt and dirt roads. You ride along the hills overlooking the amazing views of Val d’Orcia.

Most of the trails are suitable for advanced – experienced riders. They are quite challenging but definitely worth it!

1) Mountain bike route Montepulciano – Pienza

This is a gravel road and a road itinerary. Ideal for MTB, not for tour or racing bikes. You’ll bike through hills, valleys, olive groves and vineyards. This is a spectaculair itinerary for experienced mountainbikers.

Distance 27 km.

2) Road cycling route Montepulciano – Pienza

Explore this amazing cycle route to Pienza! The start and arrival point is Montepulciano. From here you start the bike tour among the hills of the Val di Chiana valley. Passing Montichiello you’ll see the very best of the iconic Val d’Orcia valley.

Val d’Orcia

Panoramic roads lead you the Renaissance village Pienza. Once you’ve passed Pienza you take the road back to Montepulciano.

Distance 38 km.

3) Road cycling route Montepulciano – Acquaviva – Montepulciano Stazione

This itinerary is almost my daily bike exercise. It is a short ride from the historic centre of Montepulciano to Acquaviva, Valiano and Montepulciano Stazione.

Montepulciano

Montepulciano, Acquaviva and Valiano are hilly villages. The biking route around Montepulciano Stazione is primarily flat.

After leaving Montepulciano this road passes the villages of Acquaviva and Valiano. Once you reach Valiano you turn back the way up to Montepulciano Stazione and Montepulciano.

In the countryside of Montepulciano you can see the hospital of Nottola.

Distance 27.6 km.

4) Road cycling route Montepulciano – Chianciano – Montallese – Montepulciano Stazione

It is a nice panoramic ride, it has not many up and downs. Starting in Montepulciano you follow the signs direction Chianciano and Chiusi.

Chiusi is the former Etruscan city in the province of Siena.

Along the road to Chiusi you pass my favorite pizza restaurant “Jamaica”. Jamaica is close to the discotheque La Bussola In. The pizza’s at Jamaica are huge and delicious!

Pizza Jamaica

Turning left you take the downhill road to Montallese. When arriving in Montallese turn right and you take the dirt road – cycle path to Lago di Montepulciano (Lake Montepulciano). This path is also called “Il sentiero della Bonifica.”

Sentiero della Bonifica

From there you follow the dirt road to Valiano, Montepulciano Stazione and then the road back to Montepulciano. Cycling uphill to Montepulciano is not easy. The road is not very steep but it is long. For this track you need a reasonable fitness.

Distance 53 km.

Happy cycling!

 

Acciderba Bolgheri Rosso DOC: a red wine to taste!

Acciderba Bolgheri Rosso DOC: a red wine to taste!

Acciderba

Acciderba is Tuscan dialect. In Italian they say “accidenti” which means in English “wow” or “gosh”.

The winery Azienda Agricola Serni Fulvio Luigi in Castagneto Carducci has made up the name “Acciderba” for their most important Bolgheri Rosso DOC wine – and an exquisite one it is!

The wine Acciderba is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Sangiovese. After wood aging in barrique for 12 months the wine is then bottled and set to age for a further 5 months.

It is an intense red wine with a strong identity and a long finish. On the palate flavours of small blackberries, ripe red fruit and soft tannins. This wine pairs well with wild boar, old cheeses and braised beef.

Everyone has their own taste and preference, but the wine Acciderba Rosso Bolgheri DOC is one of my favorite red wines from the  Bolgheri area.

Wine tasting at Azienda Agricola Serni Fulvio Luigi

Wine tasting in Bolgheri is one of the not to be missed “experiences” while on a holiday in Tuscany. There are many options for a wine tasting and tour in this area with all range of possibilities and prices.

Azienda Agricola Serni Fulvio Luigi is a small winery in Castagneto Carducci. Castagneto Carducci is a lovely hilltop town from where you have amazing views over the hills and the sea.

The vineyards from the winery are exposed on the slopes down towards the sea and are close to Bolgheri. The wines they make are Bolgheri Vermentino, Bolgheri Rosato and Bolgheri Rosso DOC on their family-owned 5 hectares of vineyards.

Besides making wine, Azienda Agricola Serni Fulvio Luigi is also a “frantoio”, an olive oil producer.

Vermentino vines

Vermentino vines

The whole family is involved with the wine production and sale of their wines and olive oil, likely partly to account for the love and exceptional quality of the wines.

It wasn’t the first time that I have visited this wine cellar. I know the family personally. They are very welcoming, personable and friendly. The atmosphere, tour, wines and food are superb.

The wines they serve are accompanied by local cheeses and meats, such as dried ham and capocollo. Capocollo is a traditional Italian cured meat made from the neck of a pig. Both products are homemade. Their meat comes from a local organic pig farm and is cured on site by the family.

With the coronavirus pandemic, they haven’t been open to the public for a long time. A visit is well worth it if you’re in the area -send me photos from your experiences there- I’d love to see.

Hopefully they will be able to receive more guests for a wine tour and tasting in 2021.

Information for wine tasting:

Azienda Agricola Serni Fulvio Luigi
Località Le Lame 237
57022 Castagneto Carducci (LI)
info@sernifulvioluigi.it

Bolgheri

Bolgheri is a hamlet in the municipality of Castagneto Carducci, in the province of Livorno, between the coastal cities Cecina and San Vincenzo. The coastline is called the Etruscan Coast “Costa degli Etruschi” or “Etruria”.

The village is famous for its Super Tuscan wines. The most important wineries are Tenuta San Guido, Tenuta dell’Ornellaia and Guado al Tasso.

Golfo di Baratti

The Maremma region is the land of the Etruscans. Many small towns have interesting Etruscan remains, wine roads, a mixture of woods and unspoiled walking trails.

A famous 5 km long cypress road leads you to the historic village Bolgheri. This lane is well known thanks to Giosuè Carducci in his poem “Davanti a San Guido” (In front of San Guido).

Bolgheri is dominated by its fortified castle and is worth visiting, but the main thing to see in Bolgheri is the village itself.

In the heart of this pretty little town are many wine bars and restaurants. They all serve local wines for tastings as well as by the bottle and typical Tuscan foods.

Enoteca Tognoni

Personal tip: 

Enoteca Tognoni
Via Lauretta 5
57022 Bolgheri (LI)

Francesco Tognoni is the owner of this wine bar. He is a wonderful host. With special care and treatment, Francesco and his team make sure you have a comfortable evening out while enjoying good wines and foods.

The prices in Bolgheri for a good glass of wine are in every location the same. Enoteca Tognoni is a cosy wine bar, really recommended. Making a reservation is necessary, especially in high season.

 

Il brasato al Vino Nobile di Montepulciano recipe

Il brasato al Vino Nobile di Montepulciano recipe

Beef braised in red wine

Brasato means braised beef. The best part about the recipe “Brasato al Vino Nobile di Montepulciano” is that it is an easy and slow cooker recipe.

This meat dish is delicious on a cold winter evening. Springtime is not really the season for a beef stew. But when it’s cold and rainy outside it is the perfect food to warm you up a bit!

There are many recipes of braised beef, but when preparing an outstanding brasato it is important to have high quality meat and good wine.

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG

What kind of wine would you recommend to use in beef stew?

I prefer a full bodied, robust red wine such as the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG.

This wine gives a very special aroma to the meat.

Chianina beef

For this delicious recipe I use the perfect Chianina beef. This meat is expensive, but it is a very healthy meat and low in cholesterol.

Chianina is probably the oldest breed of cattle in Italy. Did you know that? This animal is also called the giant white cow “gigante bianco”.

Chianina farm Fierli

The homeland of the white Chianina cow is the Valdichiana area. The Fierli family is a four generations farm in Foiano della Chiana. A small town located between Cortona and Montepulciano. Today the family keeps 200 Chianina cows on 100 hectares of agriculture land.

Cecilia is member of the family Fierli. She came up with the rich, warm stew recipe “il brasato al Vino Nobile di Montepulciano”. Guanciale di Chianina cheek in Vino Nobile wine.

The cheek is a hard working muscle that needs to be cooked very slow. It takes hours before the meat is tender, but it is worth waiting for!

Besides guanciale di Chianina and Vino Nobile wine other necessary ingredients for this dish are olive oil, soffritto, salt and pepper.

A soffritto is the Italian cooking base for sauces, soups, stews and many more. It is an aromatic mix of onion, carrots and celery.

Besides the basic ingredients I add bay leaves, juniper berries, cloves and fresh rosemary. Really recommended!

Important information

It’s important to bring the meat out of the fridge a few hours before cooking. The meat must come up to room temperature.

In this recipe the marination step is not necessary.

Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 3 hours at least
Serves: 2 people

Ingredients recipe

450 gram of bovine cheek (Chianina)
> 1/2 liter of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano wine

  • 2 tablespoons extra-vergin olive oil
  • 1 onion finely chopped
  • 1 stick celery finely chopped
  • 1 carrot finely chopped
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 3 juniper berries
  • 3 cloves

salt, pepper, fresh rosemary

What else do you need

Stew pot

How to cook

Don’t remove the fat before cooking, that gives the meat a unique flavor and texture.

Clean, wash and chop the onions, carrots and celery.

Heat the stew pot over medium-high heat. Brown the soffritto in hot olive oil. Stirring frequently. The soffritto should be cooked until dorata (golden brown).

Add the meat to the pan and season it with salt and pepper.

Pour in the wine and bring it to boil. Reduce the heat, add the bay leaves, rosemary, cloves and juniper berries.

Cover the pot and turn the meat occasionally.

Leave the meat at a low and slow temperature. 

The wine will evaporate. Let the wine reduce a bit and add more wine or other liquids when necessary.

After a few hours, when the meat is tender, remove it to a carving board. Slice the meat. Before serving make sure you remove the woody herbs stems and any bay leaves.

Arrange the meat on a serving plate and pour the wine sauce on top.

What to serve with beef stew

Serve warm with mashed potatoes, polenta or roasted potatoes with rosemary..  my favorite contorno!

A delicious antipasto

Antipasto misto di Cinta Senese: coppa, capocollo and speck.

Cinta Senese is an ancient Tuscan black pig with a white belt. They live free and they have a long and good life. The cinta senese meat has a DOP classification. It is top quality meat.

Wine

The main course pairs with the high tannic red wine Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG.

Red wine and fatty or high-protein foods is a perfect wine and food pairing.

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG wine is an outstanding wine in the Tuscany region, available on my wine webshop.

Buon appetito!

Watch this video recipe to see how to cook il Brasato al Vino Nobile di Montepulciano!