Last week I spent some days in Rome. After months of studying for my last WSET Diploma exam I needed a short break.
Rome is fascinating, it is one of my favorite cities. I know the city quite well. It is a place where I have lived-in and have visited several times.
Ancient Rome is best known for its historical architecture, religion, cuisine, fashion and Renaissance works. Walking through Rome is like walking in one big open-air museum! Some iconic landmarks of Rome are the Colosseum, Trevi Fountain, the Vatican City and many more.
I always love going back. The place is the eternal city and must be seen once in life.
I was surprised by how many tourists visited Rome. They say that November is the least busy time to visit the city, but it was still crowded though. Maybe because the Italian took advantage of a long weekend “fare il ponte”. Fare il ponte is an Italian expression which means literally “to make a bridge”.
The last time when I visited Rome was for the the 10 km race “la corsa dei Santi” in on November 1, 2018 1. I can’t remember the time I have finished the race, but what I remember is that we ran inside the city along many historic monuments. Great experience.
It has been a while since I wrote a blog post. Maybe because I do not have many new ideas or fantasy anymore to write about. Since 2022 I am back in the Netherlands and my focus is mainly wine, work, study and running (of course). New “wine” projects are upcoming, so stay tuned about the latest updates.
But for now just enjoy reading this blog post about Rome. Discover what to do and where to eat the best “spaghetti alla carbonara”. Enjoy the new spots and the best places to run in it’s busy heavily trafficked city.
Jubilee 2025
The city is always packed with tourists, imagine with the Jubilee next year. The holy year will bring even bigger crowds to Rome. The Rome Jubilee 2025 festivities will take place from Christmas Eve December 24, 2024 until Epiphany festival in January 2026. It is called the “Pilgrims of Hope”. Jubilees take place every 25 years.
Today Rome is under construction for the Jubilee. Due to construction, work facades are hidden, roads are blocked and you can hardly see any monument. This causes inconveniences, not only for visitors but especially for the locals.
Monti
I discovered new culinary treasures between Termini station and Via dei Fori Imperiali. One of my favorite new spot is the Monti district. Monti is Rome’s funky, hipster area with new bars, clothing boutiques and restaurants. It is a great place for Roman food, good wines and delicious ice creams.
To get to Monti you need to take the blue metro line B. The nearest station is Cavour.
Colosseum
I did the Colosseum tour with an official tour guide. Colosseum is one of the most famous monument in Rome, perhaps in the world!
I booked a 2.5 hour tour with access to the Colosseum, Roman Forum and Palatine hill on a guided tour. The local guide was extremely informative and knowledgeable. It is well worth the money. A bit crowded but still a nice experience.
I have booked with GetYourGuide. Get Your Guide is an online marketplace for booking tours and activities in many places.
Vatican Museum
The best way to visit the Vatican Museum is with a guide. There are many tour options available but I booked the tour through the official website.
The Vatican was busy, as usual. It is a museum with 25000 visitors every day. The tour is 2 hours in the museum. Unfortunately, it is not possible to admire all the art work in such a short time. But our guide was good. We managed to see all the important parts of the museum. A must do.
Food and Drinks
I love eating everything that is Italian. I am privileged and lucky that I can and may eat all kinds of foods.
Traditional Roman foods are for example Spaghetti Carbonara, Pasta Amatriciana, Suppli, Carciofi alla Romana and “Maritozzo”.
Il Maritozzaro
Maritozzo is a filled freshly baked brioche filled with whipped cream. Honestly it was one of my favorite breakfasts. A hidden bar nearby the Trastevere station “il Maritozzaro” is worth the detour if you want to eat a good Maritozzo.
It is an ideal place to have a quick meal or snack before departure. It is pretty new. There are lots of choices including steak, burgers, pasta, pizza, sushi, desserts, craft beer, wine and gelato.
Several food stalls showcase the best produce from Rome, Italy and other countries.
Mercato Testaccio
Mercato di Testaccio is located in a more permanent structure. Here you can try some of the best street foodies.
Pizza al trancio is very popular, especially the classic pizza that is topped with ham, mushrooms, olives, artichoke and tomatoes. Yummy! This pizza is always priced by the total weight of the slices.
Another classic Roman Jewish dish is the fried artichoke “carciofi alla giudia”. They are seasoned with salt, pepper and a squeeze of lemon. This foodie is the perfect appetizer.
The Testaccio market is open Monday to Saturday from 7:00 am until 3:30 pm.
Milea Art & Food
Milea is a cocktail bar, bistrot in an art gallery in the heart of Rome (Trastevere). Such a great find during my stay in Rome! Cozy atmosphere to just relax and have a nice cocktail.
The Aperol Spritz is super delicious. This aperitif is made of Aperol, Prosecco/Spumante and soda water.
Ditirambo ristorante
This restaurant reminds me of a dinner I had with my father in 2009. Ditirambo is on a side street of the Campo de’ Fiori.
The classic Roman food and atmosphere never disappoints me. I can recommend the “fritto misto del Ditirambo”. This fried mix is popular and it includes fried cod, potato croquettes and meatballs.
After the antipasto comes the primo, the first course. Primo is usually pasta, risotto, gnocchi or sometimes soup.
I taglioni fatti in casa alla “gricia” con guanciale, carciofi and pecorino is a beautiful dish of homemade pasta with pork meat, artichoke and pecorino. Gricia means “white Amatriciana” or “carbonara without eggs”.
Buon appetito!
More restaurants
And here is a short list of more spots in Rome for Foodies:
For the best-ever traditional Roman Carbonara
Location: Termini station
Da Nazzareno
Via Magenta 35/37
Roma
Accasadi refers to “a casa di” in Italian. Like Antonietta describes: “Let’s go to Sylvia’s place.”
Location: Numidio Quadrato (metro line A)
Running
When I am on a holiday I love to run. Running helps me to stay in shape, physically and mentally. But it is also a way to experience the culture of a new place. It is a different way of sightseeing.
Running gear doesn’t occupy much space in my luggage. I always bring one pair of running shoes with me and the clothes I normally wear to run. Wherever I go.
The best place to run is along the Tiber river. The river flows through the center and provides one of the best running routes in Rome.
Metro line B: Basilca San Paolo, start Ponte Gugliemo Marconi
In the historical centre you can run easily because the main sights are achievable. To avoid traffic you need to go early. But personally I prefer running along the Tiber or in the Villa Borghese area. The park is full of beautiful paths.
Start from Piazza del Popolo and enjoy! How do I get there? Metro line A: Spagna or Flaminio.
Peposo is a traditional Tuscan pepper beef stew. It is one of my favorite Italian dishes.
I know, I have many favourite dishes, but my peposo recipe brings you right away to Florence!
Peposo is rich in flavour. It really has a delicious spicy kick from the black pepper, hence the name “peposo”.
This -500 years- old dish is easy to make. Peposo is still popular across Tuscany. It originally comes from the village Impruneta, a small town in the Tuscan hills. The former name of the recipe is “Peposo alla Fornacina”, but today it is called “Peposo”.
Recipe peposo
Sylvia Italy’s peposo is made with beef chuck for stew, NO garlic*, whole black pepper corns, black powder pepper, salt, olive oil, tomato sauce to give the sauce a bit body, and red Tuscan wine: Rosso di Montepulciano DOC.
That’s it!
*Peposo without garlic tastes equally good. I eat onions and garlic, but sometimes I prefer avoiding it. I don’t like the bad breath and lingering aftertaste in my mouth.
Ingredients:
Serves 2 people
300 g boneless beef chuck for stew
a handful of black pepper corns
black pepper powder
salt
1/4 liter of red wine (Chianti or Rosso di Montepulciano)
tomato sauce*
*The original recipe peposo is more likely not to be made with tomato sauce.
Preparation
For gentle cooking, like stews, I always use my cast Creuset iron pot.
Heat the olive oil in a pot over a medium-high heat and brown the beef for a minute of 3. Add the red wine, salt, pepper and the tomato sauce.
Cover the pot, lower the heat and cook the peposo for approximately 3 hours. Check it often and give it a stir occasionally. It is important that the meat remains covered in wine and adding water if necessary.
It says that cooking longer than needed doesn’t mean tender meat, but personally I prefer cooking it long.
When the peposo is ready, the meat should be tender (I love it when the meat is falling apart..yummy) and the red wine should have reduced to a sauce.
Season with more pepper if desired and serve warm on traditionally sliced bread (preferably Tuscan bread without salt) or polenta.
Cantina Gattavecchi organizes a yearly fundraising dinner for the Breast Cancer Foundation “Io Sempre Donna“. Io Sempre Donna is in Chianciano Terme, a small village nearby Montepulciano.
Usually this annual charity dinner offers food from all over the world. But this time chef Lilian Gattavecchi decided to offer an Italian night with food from different regions, such as: Trentino – Alto Adige, Veneto, Calabria, Sardegna, Liguria, Toscana, Piemonte, Sicilia and Lombardia.
The wines they served were local wines from winery Gattavecchi: Toscana IGT red and white; Rosso di Montepulciano DOC; Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG and Vino Santo di Montepulciano DOC.
The total amount of the dinner was euro 30.00 per person (including bread, water and wine).
Io Sempre Donna
Breast cancer is the second most common cancer among women. Io Sempre Donna helps women who are dealing with breast cancer and are in need of emotional support.
In Italy women who are 50 years or older (until 69) have screenings every 2 years. Women with a family history of breast cancer have a routine screening mammograms every year.
Io Sempre Donna means literally “Me always a woman”. Women diagnosed with breast cancer face a difficult time. Io Sempre Donna assist and support them before, during and after hard times.
Foiano della Chiana is a small village in the province of Arezzo. It is home to a few thousand inhabitants
I have never visited the historic centre of Foiano della Chiana, but I do know that they have the best meat restaurant in town!
Fierli farm
Fierli is an organic farm. They keep 200 Chianina calfs and 300 Cinta Senese pigs. The animals have 100 ha agriculture land for grazing.
A few years ago I visited the farm. The agriculture land is really impressive and nice to see.
Nicola, Cecilia, Francesco, Atos and Eros Fierli are all responsible for running the farm and the restaurant. It is a good place to eat and popular with locals who come to enjoy the bistecca and other high quality meat dishes.
The farm and restaurant are located in the centre, not far from the Valdichiana Outlet in Foiano della Chiana.
Restaurant Fierli
The restaurant is open seven days a week for lunch.Only indoor dining is offered. Dinner is saved only for special occasions or a private dining event.
The shop is open at 9 am every day. I often buy meat at the Fierli’s butcher shop for new local recipes with wine I sell in my webshop.
The Cinta Senese pigs and the Chianina veals are merely slaughtered only by competent personnel at specialized established slaughterhouses.
Son Nicola and daughter Cecilia are committed to serving you amazing food. The restaurant offers dishes that showcase fresh local produce from their own farm.
The restaurant’s wine list consists of a small selection of local Tuscan wines. Cecilia is a certified FISAR sommelier and she loves to guide you through the range of wines and advice you on the perfect food pairing.
Cecilia is a good friend of mine, I have known her since our FISAR wine study in Italy.
Bistecca Chianina IGP
Chianina meat is protected by the IGP mark (Protected Geographical Indication). This means quality guaranteed.
IGP is linked to the place of origin where it is being produced, processed and prepared. The average weight of one bistecca is 1 kg and meant to serve 2-3 people.
Chianina is one of the finest meat. It is the oldest breed of cattle raised in Italy. Chianina is also called the “gigante bianco”, the white giant because of the size and the color.
Its territory of origin is the Val di Chiana in the province of Siena. You can find the Chianina breed in central Italy.
In ancient times the Chianina was used only for work, but since the ’30 in Bettole (Valdichiana) the breed is raised for meat production. The Chianina veal is not made for fast growing and slaughtering.
Chianina is the largest and oldest breed in the world. The meats are extremely delicious and healthy!
Cinta Senese DOP
The indigenous Cinta Senese pig is native to the Tuscan region and in particular nearby Siena. The breed is medium sized, with black skin and a white belt. They have been raised for centuries.
The pigs live in maximum freedom throughout diverse forests. The Cinta Senese pigs can eat whatever they want.
The meat has a DOP classification, which means local products of high quality. It has a unique and surprising flavour.
The main cured meats produced with the Cinta Senese breed are dry-cured ham, capocollo, finocchiona, salami, pancetta and so on.
Chianina and Cinta Senese Experience
Fierli organizes a Chianina and Cinta Senese Experience 2-3 times a week. Enjoy the possibility of high quality, organic, wholesome and KM zero food.
The chef prepares the best meat dishes for your lunch. It is an amazing experience when you’re on holiday in Italy. Also nice for children.
A visit to the local farmers market in Montepulciano is a very characteristic experience for any traveller. It is the best way to explore the authentic Italy. At the farmers market you find an amazing array of local produce that you don’t find in a supermarket.
The weekly market in Montepulciano is every Thursday morning from 8 am till 1 pm.
Address: Piazza Pietro Nenni in Montepulciano. The Piazza Pietro Nenni is nearby the busstation, just outside the historic centre of Montepulciano.
Happy shopping!
The stall holders feature the best local products. Buying food at the market in Montepulciano is a tradition. It became a hub for shopping and socializing in a relaxed outdoor atmosphere.
The Italian have always their go-to stalls for everything they need. Market stalls often put signs up warning “Non toccare” means do not touch the products. So, obviously it is up to the stall owners to do it.
The vendors are more than friendly and they will always choose the best pieces of fruit and vegetables for you. They serve you with a smile and you can always ask for a recipe or how to prepare it. They are very happy to answer all your questions.
At the market everything is sold by weight. You can also state the number of products you need.
It is a typical Italian market with fresh fish, fruit, vegetables, salumi, prosciutto, olives, honey, different types of pecorino cheeses, cod, mozzarella di bufala, “aglione” -giant garlic- roast chicken as well as kitchen utensils, clothes and shoes. There is always something for everyone!
Mini market in Montepulciano every Tuesday and Friday morning
Every Tuesday and Friday morning is a small outdoor market in the Via Marino Cappelli in front of the Banca Tema, just outside the historic centre. This small market is mostly frequented by locals.
There are only two market stalls selling fresh fruit, vegetables and fish. The fish market vendor offer a wide range of fish and seafood, such as salmon, tune, calamari, squid, cuttlefish and prawns. In addition to the fresh fish, you’ll find all kinds of fried fish and fried vegetables like “fiori di zucca”. Fiori di zucca are blossoms stuffed with ricotta cheese. Super delicious!
Weekly market in Chianciano Terme – Montepulciano
From Montepulciano after 6,5 km drive you arrive in Chianciano Terme.
Every Wednesday morning from 8.00 am to 1.00 pm many market stalls in Chianciano Terme offer a huge range from both food and non-food.
Address: Via delle Pace, Via dell’Abetone en Via dello Stadio in Chianciano Terme
Parking is free.
The weekly market in Chianciano Terme is the place to be to do your shopping. The most stallholders are the same as in Montepulciano, like food stall “Rosticceria Volante” that sells roast chicken, potatoes, lasagne, fright vegetables and grilled pork.
Why going to the market?
I love to buy local produce at the market. I like knowing where the food I eat comes from and supporting local farmers. It is good for the environment and it benefits the local economy.
The food is super fresh compared to the grocery store foods. There is a huge Conad supermarket in Montepulciano, but on Thursday morning many Italian families and visitors prefer shopping locally at the market.
The market stalls showcase their locally fresh (seasonal) fruits and vegetables.
Italian specialty foods
Every week I go the market in Montepulciano. I often do my shopping at my favorite market stalls. Barra Francesco from Foiano della Chiana (AR) is the best stallholder to buy fresh mozzarella, olives, anchovies and burrata.
They have a small market stall, not only for cheese, but they sell also other delicacies from Southern Italy. It is a real family owned businesses where mother, father and son are all involved.
Mozzarella di bufala is a traditionally soft cheese produced in the region Campania. Mozzarella is a ball of fresh cheese and has a better texture, richness and overall flavor than the mozzarella cheese from a grocery store.
The family Barra also sells delicious taralli (typical snack from Puglia), taralli napoletani, different kinds of cheeses and dried tasty sausages.
Fresh food market video
Below a short impression video of the farmers market in Montepulciano. The market consists of a huge number of stalls with vegetables, fish, cheese and many more!
I have made this video during the first week after the lockdown in Italy. The market returned with food vendors only so that visitors had enough space to keep a distance from each other. Household goods and clothing weren’t available at the moment.
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