Italy was the first country outside China to face a major corona outbreak. We went into a lockdown for at least 9 weeks in 2020. The restrictions against coronavirus were strict.
Last summer we managed to keep the infection rates relatively low. Unfortunately the end of the coronavirus is still not in sight.
Italy continues to update its coronavirus rules. Here you read some basic information about the current coronavirus situation in Italy.
Latest news 2021:
From Monday April 26 Italy will let restaurants with outdoor seating reopen for lunch and dinner in yellow zones. Tuscany returns to yellow zone.
We look forward to seeing you again soon in Montepulciano.
Alla salute!
The curfew will remain until the end of May when it will be re-evaluated.
Museums and exhibitions will reopen on April 26 but on reservation basis at weekends.
Cinemas and theaters will reopen with 50% capacity.
Restaurants can reopen for lunch and dinner, but only outdoors and in yellow zones.
All team and contact sports will be allowed.
For more information and updates: The Florentine. The Italian government gives a weekly update in English
Tuscany update
Tuscany has been classified as a red, orange and yellow zone.
Tuscany returns to yellow zone From April 26
Fiat 500
White zone
A new white zone has also been introduced. A region must have fewer than 50 cases 100.000 habitants.
White zones will no have restrictions. Meaning normal life. Now no Italian region will be classified into this zone, but with introducing the white zone means hope for the future.
Maintaining social distancing and wearing a mask remains but bars, restaurants, cinemas, libraries etc. will reopen. There will be no nationwide curfew.
Maintaining social distancing
They say that Tuscany will be one of the first regions classified into the white zone. Let’s cross our fingers!
Me wearing a face mask
Three colors
Starting from November 6 Italy is divided into three zones: red (high risk), orange (medium risk) and yellow (low risk). The colors are designed by the government and Minister of Health.
Dpcm Italy
The code classification changes frequently in Italy. It depends on the local statistics.
The nationwide curfew is still effective today in Italy.
Social distancing must be continued in the three zones. And it is mandatory to wear a face mask unless you go solo outside for a run or a bike ride. For body and mind it is important to get outside and exercise. With the eased restrictions it is it is the ideal time to do them.
Biking in Tuscany
Travellers from and to Italy must fill in a self-declaration form. These documents prove your reasons to travel.
Yellow zone
A yellow zone in Italy is a moderate risk zone. The rules are more relaxed.
The government recommends you to limit movements.
You are not allowed to move between regions only when necessary (work, study or hospital).
No more than two guests can visit the same home. And visiting a private home is allowed only once per day. The place you visit must be in the same region.
Restaurants, bars, gelaterias and pubs are able to operate in weekdays and weekends. The opening hours are 5 AM till 6 PM. Takeaway for restaurants is possible until 10 PM.
Menchetti
Menchetti
Shops are opened on weekdays and weekends. Shopping centers (shopping malls) remain closed on weekends and public holidays.
Hairdressers and beauty salons are open.
Orange zone
The orange zone is a medium high-risk zone. Nationwide measures continues to apply with additional restrictions.
The government recommend to limit movements as much as possible.
Restaurants and bars are closed. Bars provide takeaway service until 6 PM and restaurants provide takeaway service until 10 pm. There is no time limit for home deliveries. Pharmacies and shops that sell essential goods remain open.
Caffe Poliziano
Shopping centres (shopping malls) are closed over the weekends and public holidays.
Shops, hairdressers and beauty centers stay open on weekdays and weekends.
Closure of all museums, gyms, swimming pools, cinemas and theaters. Universities, primary and secondary schools are closed.
You may receive up to two guests in your home, on one condition that they live in the same municipality.
Residents are allowed to leave their homes only when it’s for work, necessity and health reasons.
Outside physical activity in the vicinity of your home is allowed (hiking, running and biking).
Montepulciano
Piazza Grande
Red zone
The red zone is the highest risk zone. This means strict rules.People are asked not to move around unless necessary.
It is recommended that you work from home.
The rules last at least for 15 days. Restaurants, bars, gelaterias are closed. Except supermarkets and other food stores. Takeaway until 10 PM is still allowed. Pharmacies and shops that sell essential goods remain open.
Traveling in between regions and cities is prohibited. Moving in your municipality is not allowed, unless it’s for work, study and health reasons. When traveling you must have a signed declaration form proving your reasons to travel.
Closure of all museums, gyms, swimming pools, cinemas and theaters. Universities, primary and secondary schools are closed.
Hairdressers are closed. Beauty centers are closed.
You may only exercise individually in the vicinity of your home.
Running in Tuscany
Up to two persons may visit another person’s home, on the condition that they live in the same region.
Between San Quirico d’Orcia and Pienza is the Chapel of the Madonna di Vitaleta. It is an amazing territory, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Chapel of the Madonna di Vitaleta is a tall bright building surrounded by cypress trees.
How to get there
To visit the chapel by car you need to follow a dirt road until you reach a free parking place. From the parking place it is 10 minutes walking to the chapel. The chapel can also be reached by a hiking trail through the hills.
Spring 2020 | Val d’Orcia Tuscany
The surrounding landscape is really awesome. The rolling hills of the Val d’orcia offer an incredible sight. It is one of the most wonderful places in Tuscany!
Story
The chapel was built around 1550. The “Capella della Madonna di Vitaleta” used to be the home of the Madonna sculpture made by the artist Andrea della Robbia. The chapel was restored in 1884 and the statue was moved to the Church of San Francesco in San Quirico d’Orcia where it can be seen today.
Spring 2020 | Chapel of the Madonna di Vitaleta
San Quirico is a small and nice hill town in Tuscany.
San Quirico d’Orcia Tuscany
Today
The chapel is locked, you cannot go inside. It is private property. The facade is decorated with stone from Rapolano and a small rose window.
The Chapel of the Madonna di Vitaleta is one of the most photographed locations of Tuscany. I have visited the Capella della Madonna di Vitaleta two times within the last months. Last spring, just after the lockdown and today September 20.
September 2020 Chapel of the Madonna di Vitaleta
September 2020 Chapel of the Madonna di Vitaleta
I am determined to visit the chapel again, perhaps accompanied by a good red wine in the neighboring fields.
September 2020 | il Convento Rosso di Montepulciano DOC
Alberto Giorgi is a local farmer and a small producer of aglione. He grows fruit, vegetables and aglione -garlic- in the Valdichiana valley.
His farms are located in Montepulciano and Chianciano, Tuscany.
Every Wednesday and Friday morning is a small market in Montallese. Alberto is always there with his market stall to sell fresh vegetables, fruits and aglione. His local products are good and value for money!
Montallese is a town located in the province of Chiusi. It is a small village along the road that connects Chiusi with Montepulciano.
Aglione from the Valdichiana
At the market and many local supermarkets you can buy fresh Aglione only in season.
Aglione is a giant garlic variety from the Valdichiana Senese area. The aglione is also called the “aglio del bacio” (kissing garlic). This garlic is mild, odourless and easy to digest.
The weight of a giant garlic varies from 50 gram to 1-2 kilos. But 1-2 kilos is more the exception rather than the rule.
Every year the seeds of the aglione (which are about 4-5 cm in size) are sown in September. The aglione bulbs are ready to be harvested in June. Climate plays a crucial role at harvest time of the aglione. Many rainfall, pests and diseases can affect the garlic crop.
After the harvest time the garlic should be left out in the sun. The giant garlic is still green.
You can last aglione for one year after it’s harvested, on the condition that the garlic is being kept in a dry, well ventilated and shady place.
Note: humidity can lead to damage of the aglione.
Flavour for foods
You can use aglione as a normal ingredient in all kinds of food dishes, such as sauces, dressings, vegetables, stews and meats.
The two most famous pasta dishes with aglione from the Valdichiana are: Pici all’Aglione (pasta i pici with tomato-garlic sauce) and Pici con le Bricciole (pasta i pici with breadcrumbs). Super yummy!
It is excellent food you need to try when in Tuscany. Buon appetito!
Pici pasta are thick homemade spaghetti. In Italy it is a first course. The pasta is also known as Pici Senesi. They are originally from southern Tuscany around Siena. Hence the name Pici Senesi.
I pici
In Montalcino they are called “i pinci”. Montalcino is a hill town and comune in the province of Siena.
It is not difficult to make fresh pasta i pici. Still me, as a foreigner in Italy, I am not used working with flour and water. I don’t have the technique of pasta making, unfortunately. I prepare more easy, healthy and quick meals.
The ingredients of the pasta dough for i pici are simple: flour, water and olive oil.
Homemade pasta i pici
With your hands flat you roll the pasta from the center outwards.
Pici is a fat and rough pasta. There are many varieties to choose among i pici:
Pici all’aglione –tomato and garlic sauce-
Pici ragù –meat sauce-
Pici al ragù d’anatra –duck sauce-
In supermarkets you can buy fresh pici. The pici from the supermarkets are delicious as well. I eat them often with “ai frutti di mare” (fish) or with fresh made Pesto Genovese.
Of course fresh pasta tastes better, but with a little creativity and flexibility you can make the best pasta dishes at home!
Restaurant La Solita Zuppa
The owners of restaurant La Solita Zuppa are Andrea with his wife Lorella Casagni. Andrea is a top chef and sommelier. La Solita Zuppa is a Slow Food restaurant in Chiusi città, the old town.
La Solita Zuppa offers traditional dishes. On the menu you can choose from many pasta dishes with typical and local ingredients.
Every morning they make their own fresh pasta. When I visited La Solita Zuppa Andrea had prepared the pasta dough for me to roll out.
It was a nice thing to do! For a moment I felt like an Italian “mamma” with many pasta making experience.
Having dinner at restaurant La Solita Zuppa is perfect for an evening of typical Tuscan plates. The atmosphere is cosy. The service is friendly and professional.
I pici al tartufo bianco
The dishes they offer are delicious and based on its long history and location. And if you love wine you should check out their wine list. Most of the wines are local and match excellent with the food they serve.
Cheese desert
After weeks of lockdown they have opened their restaurant since May 27. It is recommended to make a reservation in advance. La Solita Zuppa is closed on Tuesdays.
Lampredotto
La Solita Zuppa is famous for their Lampredotto sandwich. Lampredotto is a local Tuscan street food specialty. It is the fourth stomach of the cow. Tuscany has a tradition of eating internal organs. They use these organs to create delicious dishes with a strong and spicy flavor.
Personally I don’t like Lampredotto. It has a rich fatty texture.
But the tradition of food is important for the locals. It is a way of life and history. Most of the people in Tuscany love eating Lampredotto.
Chiusi – Siena
Chiusi is near Montepulciano. In a relaxing countryside sits the ancient city of Chiusi. It is situated on a hill overlooking the Val di Chiana valley and the Umbrian hills.
Chiusi città is the old town and Chiusi Scalò is the modern area.
The story of the Tuscan town Chiusi is closely linked to the Etruscans. In every corner you can breathe in the Etruscan presence and there are many details that refer to king Porsenna.
The burial place of the legendary Etruscan king Porsenna would have been beneath the town of Chiusi. As we know now, the underground routs, the labyrinths, were part of a water supply system dug by the Etruscans.
Chiusi is an appreciated city by visitors. In the ancient town you find a number of historical and archeological sites. One of the most interesting museums to visit is the “National Archeological Museum”: Museo Nazionale Etrusco. The museum reconstructs the history of Chiusi and its territory through numerous finds from the Iron Age to the Lombard age.
It is one of the most important museums in Italy for its knowledge of Etruscan art.
How do I reach Chiusi
There are different ways to get to Chiusi. By car and by train. Chiusi Scalò is an important train station. Operated by Trenitalia, from Rome and Florence are several train services.
It is very easy to find a taxi in Chiusi Scalò. There are also busses that take you from the station to the centre of Chiusi.
Gelateria
One of my favorite gelateria in Chiusi Scalo is Green Bar in Via Cassia Aureli I, 107. This gelateria is at walking distance from the train station.
Lago di Chiusi
Chiusi’s Lake is only 5 minutes drive from the centre of Chiusi città. You can bike and hike in this wonderful nature area. For food lovers I recommend restaurant Pesce d’Orco. They offer traditional fish “pesce di lago brustico” from the Etruscan civilization. Yummy!
Il brustico “pesce del lago”
Running
Every year in September is a run and walk around the lake: Giro Lago di Chiusi. It is a 18k run. A nice run experience! And if you don’t run you might participate to the organized walk.
Last week I visited Pienza in the Val d’Orcia. Pienza is a tiny village situated 20 km from Montalcino and a few km from Montepulciano.
Pienza
This period is a unique chance for me to visit places in Italy without lots of tourists. Italy has opened its borders to European tourists from early June but the Coronavirus still keeps tourists away. Some Italian visitors from other regions arrive in Tuscany but not (yet) people from other countries.
Few people were around in Pienza. Pienza is a popular place to travel. For many people Tuscany is a dream destination for its beauty, scenic landscape and historical villages.
Tuscany is so special and unique. It’s not surprisingly that Val d’Orcia has been made a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Capella della Madonna di Vitaleta
Val d’Orcia
Pienza is the most renowned village in Val d’Orcia. In 1996 UNESCO declared this town a World Heritage site.
History
Pienza was redesigned in the late 15th century by Pope Pius II (Aeneas Silvius Piccolomini). The original name of the village Pienza is Corsignano. Pope Pius was born here. He decided to change Corsignano into an ideal city to be called Pienza.
Today Pienza houses wonderful buildings like the Palazzo Piccolomini “Pope’s palace”, the Cathedral and town hall. These attractions are definitely worth a visit.
How do I get to Pienza
Pienza is located only 12 km away from Montepulciano. You can reach this village easily by car. There is free parking outside the historic centre. For example in the Via della Madonnina. Here you find enough parking space.
Parallel to this street is a wonderful walking path to the centre. The views over the landscape are stunning.
You can also take the bus from from Montepulciano to Pienza and vica versa. By bus it’s about 25 minutes travel time.
Val d’Orcia
The town Pienza is as small town with a population around 2300. In the main street Corso Rossellino is a pretty strong smell of cheese. The Pecorino cheese of Pienza is one of the best and popular Tuscan cheese. Many tiny shops in Pienza sell this amazing Pecorino cheese.
You should taste it, it’s really yummy!
Cheese farm in Pienza
The Pecorino cheese is a soft or semi hard sheep cheese produced in Pienza. It is one of the most delicious Italian cheeses made from sheep milk (ewe’s milk).
Personally I know Fattoria Pianporcino in Pienza. This cheese farm produces different Pecorino types like Pecorino fresco, Pecorino semi-stagionato and pecorino fully stagionato.
The owner of Pianporcino is Giuseppe Bussu (on the right-hand side of the picture).
This photo is from before the Coronavirus.
Fattoria Pianporcino
For a cheese tasting and visit reservations are recommended. Especially now with new measures and restrictions.
Pienza is also called a “Slow Food” place for food and wine lovers. In the historic centre are many wine shops “enoteche” where you can taste the local wines (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Brunello di Montalcino).
The restaurants offer traditional local dishes like Tuscan pasta “i pici”, antipasti and different types of cheeses.
Pienza is also a romantic destination with the two streets called Via dell”Amore and Via del Bacio.
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