Run, eat and drink in Rome | a short trip to the eternal city

Run, eat and drink in Rome | a short trip to the eternal city

Last week I spent some days in Rome. After months of studying for my last WSET Diploma exam I needed a short break.

Rome is fascinating, it is one of my favorite cities. I know the city quite well. It is a place where I have lived-in and have visited several times.

Ancient Rome is best known for its historical architecture, religion, cuisine, fashion and Renaissance works. Walking through Rome is like walking in one big open-air museum! Some iconic landmarks of Rome are the Colosseum, Trevi Fountain, the Vatican City and many more.

I always love going back. The place is the eternal city and must be seen once in life.

I was surprised by how many tourists visited Rome. They say that November is the least busy time to visit the city, but it was still crowded though. Maybe because the Italian took advantage of a long weekend “fare il ponte”. Fare il ponte is an Italian expression which means literally “to make a bridge”.

The last time when I visited Rome was for the the 10 km race “la corsa dei Santi” in on November 1, 2018 1. I can’t remember the time I have finished the race, but what I remember is that we ran inside the city along many historic monuments. Great experience.

It has been a while since I wrote a blog post. Maybe because I do not have many new ideas or fantasy anymore to write about. Since 2022 I am back in the Netherlands and my focus is mainly wine, work, study and running (of course). New “wine” projects are upcoming, so stay tuned about the latest updates.

But for now just enjoy reading this blog post about Rome. Discover what to do and where to eat the best “spaghetti alla carbonara”. Enjoy the new spots and the best places to run in it’s busy heavily trafficked city.

Jubilee 2025

The city is always packed with tourists, imagine with the Jubilee next year. The holy year will bring even bigger crowds to Rome. The Rome Jubilee 2025 festivities will take place from Christmas Eve December 24, 2024 until Epiphany festival in January 2026. It is called the “Pilgrims of Hope”. Jubilees take place every 25 years.

Today Rome is under construction for the Jubilee. Due to construction, work facades are hidden, roads are blocked and you can hardly see any monument. This causes inconveniences, not only for visitors but especially for the locals.

Monti

I discovered new culinary treasures between Termini station and Via dei Fori Imperiali. One of my favorite new spot is the Monti district. Monti is Rome’s funky, hipster area with new bars, clothing boutiques and restaurants. It is a great place for Roman food, good wines and delicious ice creams.

To get to Monti you need to take the blue metro line B. The nearest station is Cavour.

Colosseum

I did the Colosseum tour with an official tour guide. Colosseum is one of the most famous monument in Rome, perhaps in the world!

I booked a 2.5 hour tour with access to the Colosseum, Roman Forum and Palatine hill on a guided tour. The local guide was extremely informative and knowledgeable. It is well worth the money. A bit crowded but still a nice experience.

I have booked with GetYourGuide. Get Your Guide is an online marketplace for booking tours and activities in many places.

Vatican Museum

The best way to visit the Vatican Museum is with a guide. There are many tour options available but I booked the tour through the official website.

The Vatican was busy, as usual. It is a museum with 25000 visitors every day. The tour is 2 hours in the museum. Unfortunately, it is not possible to admire all the art work in such a short time. But our guide was good. We managed to see all the important parts of the museum. A must do.

Food and Drinks

I love eating everything that is Italian. I am privileged and lucky that I can and may eat all kinds of foods.

Traditional Roman foods are for example Spaghetti Carbonara, Pasta Amatriciana, Suppli, Carciofi alla Romana and “Maritozzo”.

Il Maritozzaro

Maritozzo is a filled freshly baked brioche filled with whipped cream. Honestly it was one of my favorite breakfasts. A hidden bar nearby the Trastevere station “il Maritozzaro” is worth the detour if you want to eat a good Maritozzo.

Via Ettore Rolli, 50
00153 Rome

Mercato Centrale

A nice discovery in the Termini area is the Mercato Centrale.

It is an ideal place to have a quick meal or snack before departure. It is pretty new. There are lots of choices including steak, burgers, pasta, pizza, sushi, desserts, craft beer, wine and gelato.

Several food stalls showcase the best produce from Rome, Italy and other countries.

Mercato Testaccio

Mercato di Testaccio is located in a more permanent structure. Here you can try some of the best street foodies.

Pizza al trancio is very popular, especially the classic pizza that is topped with ham, mushrooms, olives, artichoke and tomatoes. Yummy! This pizza is always priced by the total weight of the slices.

Another classic Roman Jewish dish is the fried artichoke “carciofi alla giudia”. They are seasoned with salt, pepper and a squeeze of lemon. This foodie is the perfect appetizer.

The Testaccio market is open Monday to Saturday from 7:00 am until 3:30 pm.

Milea Art & Food

Milea is a cocktail bar, bistrot in an art gallery in the heart of Rome (Trastevere). Such a great find during my stay in Rome! Cozy atmosphere to just relax and have a nice cocktail.

The Aperol Spritz is super delicious. This aperitif is made of Aperol, Prosecco/Spumante and soda water.

Ditirambo ristorante

This restaurant reminds me of a dinner I had with my father in 2009. Ditirambo is on a side street of the Campo de’ Fiori.

The classic Roman food and atmosphere never disappoints me. I can recommend the “fritto misto del Ditirambo”. This fried mix is popular and it includes fried cod, potato croquettes and meatballs.

After the antipasto comes the primo, the first course. Primo is usually pasta, risotto, gnocchi or sometimes soup.

I taglioni fatti in casa alla “gricia” con guanciale, carciofi and pecorino is a beautiful dish of homemade pasta with pork meat, artichoke and pecorino. Gricia means “white Amatriciana” or “carbonara without eggs”.

Buon appetito!

More restaurants

And here is a short list of more spots in Rome for Foodies:

  1. For the best-ever traditional Roman Carbonara
    Location: Termini station
    Da Nazzareno
    Via Magenta 35/37
    Roma
  2. Roman style pizza
    Accasadi
    Viale Opita 72
    Roma

Accasadi refers to “a casa di” in Italian. Like Antonietta describes: “Let’s go to Sylvia’s place.”
Location: Numidio Quadrato (metro line A)

Running

When I am on a holiday I love to run. Running helps me to stay in shape, physically and mentally. But it is also a way to experience the culture of a new place. It is a different way of sightseeing.

Running gear doesn’t occupy much space in my luggage. I always bring one pair of running shoes with me and the clothes I normally wear to run. Wherever I go.

The best place to run is along the Tiber river. The river flows through the center and provides one of the best running routes in Rome.

Metro line B: Basilca San Paolo, start Ponte Gugliemo Marconi

In the historical centre you can run easily because the main sights are achievable. To avoid traffic you need to go early. But personally I prefer running along the Tiber or in the Villa Borghese area. The park is full of beautiful paths.

Start from Piazza del Popolo and enjoy! How do I get there? Metro line A: Spagna or Flaminio.

Enjoy Rome!

Carnevale di Venezia 2023

Carnevale di Venezia 2023

The Carnival of Venice (Carnevale di Venezia) is different to carnivals which take place in The Netherlands for instance. It is one of the most famous carnivals around the world. The celebration takes place over 10 days. This year, the carnival in Venice will take place between February 4 and February 21.

Venetian costumes and masks

Many people use the Carnival as an opportunity to dress up in wonderful, colorful outfits. Most costumes are historical and handmade in the ateliers of the city Venice. There are costumes shops all over that rent costumes.

Each costume is one of a kind item, to guarantee its uniqueness. They are stylish, luxurious and noble.

It is not necessary to wear costumes at Venice Carnival. Many tourists opt for a mask. In Venice are many mask shops selling amazing Venetian masks during carnival and most visitors will buy one. Masks are part of the Venetian tradition. They have been used on many other occasions in the past.

Masks are made of papier-mâché, velvet and lace, decorated with gold and silver leaves, fabrics, jewels, colors, crystal and leather. There are different styles of masks in Venice:

  • Bautta – the traditional Venetian Carnival mask –
  • Moretta – a black mask worn by women –
  • Gnaga – a mask traditionally worn by homosexual men –

Piazza San Marco

“Il salotto d’Europa a Venezia”. Piazza San Marco is one of the most fascinating salon in the world! Saint Mark’s Square is famous for its unique monuments, beautiful buildings and wonderful basilica.

Piazza San Marco is a great spot to view the Venice Carnival Costumes. There is also a daily parade featuring the best costumed participants. The parade in Saint Mark’s Square is a free event and ideal for photo opportunities.

Carnevale di Venezia is a unique experience. Venice is a magical lagoon city, a city of romance, beauty and historical importance. Venice is not like any other city in Italy. During the Carnival period the atmosphere creates glamorous costume balls, creative contests, regattas, water parades and feasts.

Caffè Florian

Caffè Florian in Piazza San Marco plays a central role in the Venice Carnival. It is the oldest caffè house in Europe and it attracts many visitors all over the world during the Venice Carnival. It is the place to be!

Foodie

Carnival in Venice is not only masks and costumes, a big part of the celebration are the fried pastries, frittelle and the crostoli. During the Carnival, only at this time of the year, you can taste the typical Venetian goodies. This fried dish pairs excellent with the cold weather and the festive mood of Carnival.

And what wine is best to drink with frittelle? Prosecco! Prosecco Brut or Prosecco Extra Dry. The little sweetness works perfect with the frittelle. Cheers!

Available prosecco in our stock Toffoli Prosecco Superiore DOCG

My Carnival Experience in Venice

I have visited Venice during Carnival season multiple times. Venice is always breathtaking but during Carnival your view of culture and tradition will change. The extraordinary costumes and the elaborate masks make Venice’s Carnival a true Venetian experience. There is a huge amount to see and to do. For more information visit the website “Carnevale di Venezia“.

Happy Carnival everyone and buon Martedi Grasso (Mardi Grass) da Venezia!

 

Sylvia Italy’s peposo recipe

Sylvia Italy’s peposo recipe

Peposo is a traditional Tuscan pepper beef stew. It is one of my favorite Italian dishes.

I know, I have many favourite dishes, but my peposo recipe brings you right away to Florence!

Peposo is rich in flavour. It really has a delicious spicy kick from the black pepper, hence the name “peposo”.

This -500 years- old dish is easy to make. Peposo is still popular across Tuscany. It originally comes from the village Impruneta, a small town in the Tuscan hills. The former name of the recipe is “Peposo alla Fornacina”, but today it is called “Peposo”.

Recipe peposo

Sylvia Italy’s peposo is made with beef chuck for stew, NO garlic*, whole black pepper corns, black powder pepper, salt, olive oil, tomato sauce to give the sauce a bit body, and red Tuscan wine: Rosso di Montepulciano DOC.

That’s it!

*Peposo without garlic tastes equally good. I eat onions and garlic, but sometimes I prefer avoiding it. I don’t like the bad breath and lingering aftertaste in my mouth.

Ingredients:
Serves 2 people

  • 300 g boneless beef chuck for stew
  • a handful of black pepper corns
  • black pepper powder
  • salt
  • 1/4 liter of red wine (Chianti or Rosso di Montepulciano)
  • tomato sauce*

*The original recipe peposo is more likely not to be made with tomato sauce. 

Preparation

For gentle cooking, like stews, I always use my cast Creuset iron pot.

Heat the olive oil in a pot over a medium-high heat and brown the beef for a minute of 3. Add the red wine, salt, pepper and the tomato sauce.

Cover the pot, lower the heat and cook the peposo for approximately 3 hours. Check it often and give it a stir occasionally. It is important that the meat remains covered in wine and adding water if necessary.

It says that cooking longer than needed doesn’t mean tender meat, but personally I prefer cooking it long.

When the peposo is ready, the meat should be tender (I love it when the meat is falling apart..yummy) and the red wine should have reduced to a sauce.

Season with more pepper if desired and serve warm on traditionally sliced bread (preferably Tuscan bread without salt) or polenta.

Buon appetito!

 

Charity dinner for “io sempre donna”

Charity dinner for “io sempre donna”

Cantina Gattavecchi organizes a yearly fundraising dinner for the Breast Cancer Foundation “Io Sempre Donna“. Io Sempre Donna is in Chianciano Terme, a small village nearby Montepulciano.

Usually this annual charity dinner offers food from all over the world. But this time chef Lilian Gattavecchi decided to offer an Italian night with food from different regions, such as: Trentino – Alto Adige, Veneto, Calabria, Sardegna, Liguria, Toscana, Piemonte, Sicilia and Lombardia.

The wines they served were local wines from winery Gattavecchi: Toscana IGT red and white; Rosso di Montepulciano DOC; Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG and Vino Santo di Montepulciano DOC.

The total amount of the dinner was euro 30.00 per person (including bread, water and wine).

Io Sempre Donna

Breast cancer is the second most common cancer among women. Io Sempre Donna helps women who are dealing with breast cancer and are in need of emotional support.

In Italy women who are 50 years or older (until 69) have screenings every 2 years. Women with a family history of breast cancer have a routine screening mammograms every year.

Io Sempre Donna means literally “Me always a woman”. Women diagnosed with breast cancer face a difficult time. Io Sempre Donna assist and support them before, during and after hard times.

Menu charity dinner

Antipasti

Toscana – nero toscano (chicken liver)
Calabria – BOMBA calabra (chilly peppers)
Umbria – salame al tartufo e crostini funghi mozzarella
Sardegna – pecorino cheese
Veneto – baccalà mantecato (stockfish)

Primi piatti

Trentino Alto Adige – canederli in brodo
Campania – scialatelli alla sorrentina
Piemonte – la paniscia alla novarese

Secondo piatti

Lombardia – polenta con le quaglie (quail)
Toscana – peposo (red wine beef stew with lots of pepper)

Contorni

Liguria – patate al forno con i funghi
Sicilia – melanzane (eggplants)
Toscana – fagioli bianchi (white beans)

Dolci

Toscana – crostata / biscotti al Vino Nobile
Lombardia – tiramisù

Conclusion

The food was fabulous. We were a bit too full at the end but it was really amazing. A great experience!

 

The best Chianina steak in Foiano della Chiana

The best Chianina steak in Foiano della Chiana

Foiano della Chiana is a small village in the province of Arezzo. It is home to a few thousand inhabitants

I have never visited the historic centre of Foiano della Chiana, but I do know that they have the best meat restaurant in town!

Fierli farm

Fierli is an organic farm. They keep 200 Chianina calfs and 300 Cinta Senese pigs. The animals have 100 ha agriculture land for grazing.

A few years ago I visited the farm. The agriculture land is really impressive and nice to see.

Nicola, Cecilia, Francesco, Atos and Eros Fierli are all responsible for running the farm and the restaurant. It is a good place to eat and popular with locals who come to enjoy the bistecca and other high quality meat dishes.

The farm and restaurant are located in the centre, not far from the Valdichiana Outlet in Foiano della Chiana.

Restaurant Fierli

The restaurant is open seven days a week for lunch.  Only indoor dining is offered. Dinner is saved only for special occasions or a private dining event.

The shop is open at 9 am every day. I often buy meat at the Fierli’s butcher shop for new local recipes with wine I sell in my webshop.

The Cinta Senese pigs and the Chianina veals are merely slaughtered only by competent personnel at specialized established slaughterhouses.

Son Nicola and daughter Cecilia are committed to serving you amazing food. The restaurant offers dishes that showcase fresh local produce from their own farm.

The restaurant’s wine list consists of a small selection of local Tuscan wines. Cecilia is a certified FISAR sommelier and she loves to guide you through the range of wines and advice you on the perfect food pairing. 

Cecilia is a good friend of mine, I have known her since our FISAR wine study in Italy.

Bistecca Chianina IGP

Chianina meat is protected by the IGP mark (Protected Geographical Indication). This means quality guaranteed.

IGP is linked to the place of origin where it is being produced, processed and prepared. The average weight of one bistecca is 1 kg and meant to serve 2-3 people.

Chianina is one of the finest meat. It is the oldest breed of cattle raised in Italy. Chianina is also called the “gigante bianco”, the white giant because of the size and the color.

Its territory of origin is the Val di Chiana in the province of Siena. You can find the Chianina breed in central Italy.

In ancient times the Chianina was used only for work, but since the ’30 in Bettole (Valdichiana) the breed is raised for meat production. The Chianina veal is not made for fast growing and slaughtering. 

Chianina is the largest and oldest breed in the world. The meats are extremely delicious and healthy!

Cinta Senese DOP

The indigenous Cinta Senese pig is native to the Tuscan region and in particular nearby Siena. The breed is medium sized, with black skin and a white belt. They have been raised for centuries.

The pigs live in maximum freedom throughout diverse forests. The Cinta Senese pigs can eat whatever they want. 

The meat has a DOP classification, which means local products of high quality. It has a unique and surprising flavour.

The main cured meats produced with the Cinta Senese breed are dry-cured ham, capocollo, finocchiona, salami, pancetta and so on.

Chianina and Cinta Senese Experience

Fierli organizes a Chianina and Cinta Senese Experience 2-3 times a week. Enjoy the possibility of high quality, organic, wholesome and KM zero food.

The chef prepares the best meat dishes for your lunch. It is an amazing experience when you’re on holiday in Italy. Also nice for children.

For more information and bookings: ChianinaItaly