Pici is a local pasta specialty from the province of Siena. It is a thick hand rolled pasta made from flour and water. Pici Toscani are similar to fat spaghetti.
The local people from Montepulciano “i poliziani” eat pici quite often. Since I moved here, I only eat pici. This pasta is amazing. So delicious!
Normally I buy fresh pici in the supermarket. It is a 300 gram packet, just enough for two meals. They are fresh and can be stored in the refrigerator for a couple of days.
Obviously dried pici are available as well in grocery stores, but I prefer the fresh homemade variety!
Le vongole veraci
I don’t live near the beach, but I eat fish regularly. Fish is one of my favorite dishes.
There are different types of clams. They live in the Mediterranean and Adriatic sea. On the Italian coast you find a wide range of good restaurants where they serve the best fish and fresh seafood.
In Italy we eat plenty of fish. I personally always prefer the clams “vongole veraci” for my pasta. This shellfish is bigger and they give an essential “sea” taste to the primo piatto.
A primo piatto can be a risotto or a pasta dish.
Recipe
Pici alle vongole is my personal recipe. I enjoy to experiment with different flavors and herbs. For the best pasta recipes I often ask locals, or I check out various recipe websites. Mostly I use the website of Giallo Zafferano.
I always put emotion and love in a dish, cooking is one of my greatest hobby. Besides wine tasting and running of course.
There are rules about Italian food that Italian follow and I respect that. Also the wine is important because the meal I prepare must pair with the wine I choose. It’s important to have a balance between the food and the wine.
I pici alle vongole
Primo piatto
Tuscan cuisine
Recipe for 1 persoon
Ingredients
1 clove garlic
Remove the skin, place the flat side of the knife over it and press down.
1 fresh red chilly
Chop the chilly into small pieces. How many chilly pieces you want to use for your pasta depends on how spicy you prefer to eat.
150 gram pasta i pici
100 ml white wine
Pinot Grigio delle Venezie DOC
300 gram vongole veraci Normally 250 gram is enough, but if you love vongole, the more the better.
half a bunch of fresh flat leaf parsley
chop the parsley
extra vergine olive oil
two table spoons of olio Italiano
salt
Preparation
Bring the water to boil in a pot.
Scrub the clams clean. They are unlikely to have sand in them. But to be sure that they are all clean and healthy I recommend to clean them.
Put two table spoons of olive oil into the hot saucepan. Add the garlic and some slices of chilly. Swirl a few seconds and make sure that the garlic doesn’t get too brown.
Pour in the white wine and bring it to boil. Then add the clams and increase heat to high. Cover and cook the clams until they are open. This will take at least 6 minutes.
After the water for the pasta has started to boil I add some salt. Cook the pici al dente. The recommended cooking time on the pasta package is 10-12 minutes. I always prefer having the pasta al dente.
Meanwhile keep on stirring with a spatula. Add the pici to the pan with clams, cook over high heat, tossing constantly, until pasta is al dente and has soaked up some of the sauce.
Remove the garlic, add the parsley and some pasta water if the sauce seems dry.
Serve your pici alle vongole directly while its hot.
Buon appetito!
PS: to pour the wine in the pan before the vongole is a recommendation from a fish market vendor in Montepulciano.
Can I store the pici alle vongole in the refrigerator?
You can store the pici alle vongole for maximum one day in the refrigerator, but it’s not recommended. Le vongole should be eaten fresh and immediately with the pasta.
Wine and food pairing
Prosecco Superiore DOCG Brut Millesimato
Pinot Grigio delle Venezie DOC
Both wines are wonderful wines from the winery Toffoli in the Conegliano Valdobbiadene area in the Veneto region, available on my wine webshop.
I live in Italy since 12 years and I have never seen it snow in Montepulciano.
This morning everything changed with lots of snow. As soon as I saw the countryside I rushed to get dressed to go outside for a walk in Montepulciano.
There was nobody on the street. I walked in the heart of the historic centre to the main square of Montepulciano: Piazza Grande.
Here’s a video from this morning’s walk.
Snow is rare and when it does fall, it usually smelts quickly. Of course by the time you read this the snow will have turned into rain and Montepulciano will be a slippery mess.
I am keeping this post short because I am preparing a virtual tour and tasting this afternoon. So enjoy these pictures from Montepulciano.
In this challenging time doing some sports are good. Running outside is what I do daily. I want to stay fit. Physically and mentally.
While running face masks are not required, fortunately. It is safe to run outside in Montepulciano. Fresh air benefits in many ways!
Running in Montepulciano
Montepulciano is a hill town. It is located at an altitude of 600 m above sea level. I know that running on hills builds muscle strength. In this period I do nothing else than running uphill and downhill.
Running here is amazing. But I don’t always enjoy training through the vineyards. Hill running is tough. Honestly I hate hills.
I usually train on a flat surface in Valiano. Valiano is a small town in the Comune of Montepulciano. To get there I need to take my car. Obviously the way we live now it isn’t allowed. We may only leave our home for work, necessity and health reasons.
The situation leave me no choice but hill running.
Vineyards in Montepulciano
The days are getting shorter and the average temperature drops. It is autumn. Biking conditions are still excellent in Tuscany, but not for me. I think my bike will be stock until 2021. Not for being lazy, I just prefer to bike in warmer weather conditions.
Christmas
Time flies. Everybody goes through difficult times. Almost a year has passed. Soon we will celebrate Christmas again.
Christmas in Montepulciano
Clearly the holidays will be different this year. The Christmas markets are cancelled in Italy. I don’t know if Montepulciano will have a Christmas tree for us to see.
Italy was the first country outside China to face a major corona outbreak. We went into a lockdown for at least 9 weeks in 2020. The restrictions against coronavirus were strict.
Last summer we managed to keep the infection rates relatively low. Unfortunately the end of the coronavirus is still not in sight.
Italy continues to update its coronavirus rules. Here you read some basic information about the current coronavirus situation in Italy.
Latest news 2021:
From Monday April 26 Italy will let restaurants with outdoor seating reopen for lunch and dinner in yellow zones. Tuscany returns to yellow zone.
We look forward to seeing you again soon in Montepulciano.
Alla salute!
The curfew will remain until the end of May when it will be re-evaluated.
Museums and exhibitions will reopen on April 26 but on reservation basis at weekends.
Cinemas and theaters will reopen with 50% capacity.
Restaurants can reopen for lunch and dinner, but only outdoors and in yellow zones.
All team and contact sports will be allowed.
For more information and updates: The Florentine. The Italian government gives a weekly update in English
Tuscany update
Tuscany has been classified as a red, orange and yellow zone.
Tuscany returns to yellow zone From April 26
Fiat 500
White zone
A new white zone has also been introduced. A region must have fewer than 50 cases 100.000 habitants.
White zones will no have restrictions. Meaning normal life. Now no Italian region will be classified into this zone, but with introducing the white zone means hope for the future.
Maintaining social distancing and wearing a mask remains but bars, restaurants, cinemas, libraries etc. will reopen. There will be no nationwide curfew.
Maintaining social distancing
They say that Tuscany will be one of the first regions classified into the white zone. Let’s cross our fingers!
Me wearing a face mask
Three colors
Starting from November 6 Italy is divided into three zones: red (high risk), orange (medium risk) and yellow (low risk). The colors are designed by the government and Minister of Health.
Dpcm Italy
The code classification changes frequently in Italy. It depends on the local statistics.
The nationwide curfew is still effective today in Italy.
Social distancing must be continued in the three zones. And it is mandatory to wear a face mask unless you go solo outside for a run or a bike ride. For body and mind it is important to get outside and exercise. With the eased restrictions it is it is the ideal time to do them.
Biking in Tuscany
Travellers from and to Italy must fill in a self-declaration form. These documents prove your reasons to travel.
Yellow zone
A yellow zone in Italy is a moderate risk zone. The rules are more relaxed.
The government recommends you to limit movements.
You are not allowed to move between regions only when necessary (work, study or hospital).
No more than two guests can visit the same home. And visiting a private home is allowed only once per day. The place you visit must be in the same region.
Restaurants, bars, gelaterias and pubs are able to operate in weekdays and weekends. The opening hours are 5 AM till 6 PM. Takeaway for restaurants is possible until 10 PM.
Menchetti
Menchetti
Shops are opened on weekdays and weekends. Shopping centers (shopping malls) remain closed on weekends and public holidays.
Hairdressers and beauty salons are open.
Orange zone
The orange zone is a medium high-risk zone. Nationwide measures continues to apply with additional restrictions.
The government recommend to limit movements as much as possible.
Restaurants and bars are closed. Bars provide takeaway service until 6 PM and restaurants provide takeaway service until 10 pm. There is no time limit for home deliveries. Pharmacies and shops that sell essential goods remain open.
Caffe Poliziano
Shopping centres (shopping malls) are closed over the weekends and public holidays.
Shops, hairdressers and beauty centers stay open on weekdays and weekends.
Closure of all museums, gyms, swimming pools, cinemas and theaters. Universities, primary and secondary schools are closed.
You may receive up to two guests in your home, on one condition that they live in the same municipality.
Residents are allowed to leave their homes only when it’s for work, necessity and health reasons.
Outside physical activity in the vicinity of your home is allowed (hiking, running and biking).
Montepulciano
Piazza Grande
Red zone
The red zone is the highest risk zone. This means strict rules.People are asked not to move around unless necessary.
It is recommended that you work from home.
The rules last at least for 15 days. Restaurants, bars, gelaterias are closed. Except supermarkets and other food stores. Takeaway until 10 PM is still allowed. Pharmacies and shops that sell essential goods remain open.
Traveling in between regions and cities is prohibited. Moving in your municipality is not allowed, unless it’s for work, study and health reasons. When traveling you must have a signed declaration form proving your reasons to travel.
Closure of all museums, gyms, swimming pools, cinemas and theaters. Universities, primary and secondary schools are closed.
Hairdressers are closed. Beauty centers are closed.
You may only exercise individually in the vicinity of your home.
Running in Tuscany
Up to two persons may visit another person’s home, on the condition that they live in the same region.
Alberto Giorgi is a local farmer and a small producer of aglione. He grows fruit, vegetables and aglione -garlic- in the Valdichiana valley.
His farms are located in Montepulciano and Chianciano, Tuscany.
Every Wednesday and Friday morning is a small market in Montallese. Alberto is always there with his market stall to sell fresh vegetables, fruits and aglione. His local products are good and value for money!
Montallese is a town located in the province of Chiusi. It is a small village along the road that connects Chiusi with Montepulciano.
Aglione from the Valdichiana
At the market and many local supermarkets you can buy fresh Aglione only in season.
Aglione is a giant garlic variety from the Valdichiana Senese area. The aglione is also called the “aglio del bacio” (kissing garlic). This garlic is mild, odourless and easy to digest.
The weight of a giant garlic varies from 50 gram to 1-2 kilos. But 1-2 kilos is more the exception rather than the rule.
Every year the seeds of the aglione (which are about 4-5 cm in size) are sown in September. The aglione bulbs are ready to be harvested in June. Climate plays a crucial role at harvest time of the aglione. Many rainfall, pests and diseases can affect the garlic crop.
After the harvest time the garlic should be left out in the sun. The giant garlic is still green.
You can last aglione for one year after it’s harvested, on the condition that the garlic is being kept in a dry, well ventilated and shady place.
Note: humidity can lead to damage of the aglione.
Flavour for foods
You can use aglione as a normal ingredient in all kinds of food dishes, such as sauces, dressings, vegetables, stews and meats.
The two most famous pasta dishes with aglione from the Valdichiana are: Pici all’Aglione (pasta i pici with tomato-garlic sauce) and Pici con le Bricciole (pasta i pici with breadcrumbs). Super yummy!
It is excellent food you need to try when in Tuscany. Buon appetito!
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